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A wave of public support for the establishment, including from Lin-Manuel Miranda, the creator of “Hamilton” who has been a patron since his boyhood, led its landlord, NewYork-Presbyterian Hospital, to reopen discussions with the owners of Coogan’s. A lease extension was agreed upon shortly after 4 p.m. Friday. Terms were not disclosed.
Turkey’s celebrity butcher has arrived in New York. Nusret Gokce, widely known as Salt Bae for the dramatic flourish with which he showers salt on a steak, has been a butcher since he was 13. He has become better known as a chef since 2010, having opened a string of steakhouses in Turkey and the Middle East with his business partner, Mithat Erdem.
Until recently, Syrian cuisine hardly existed in Toronto. With just a few hundred families, the Syrian population was too small to support a restaurant scene. But over the past two years, following the high-profile resettlement of more than 50,000 refugees in Canada, the Toronto area — where over 11,000 of them live — is experiencing the green shoots of a Syrian-food boom.
But since Coogan’s opened in 1985, the restaurant and its owners have left footprints in their neighborhood that go far beyond the service of food and drink. Where others saw a broken neighborhood and city, they built a sprawling, homey space that erased ethnic, class, racial and religious boundaries, fully embracing and embodying the promise of New York. On the walls are posters of John F. Kennedy, former president of the United States, and Leonel Fernández Reyna, former president of the Dominican Republic.
She had whipped up a citrus-sheathed gin number with a rustle of Chartreuse called a 388 C, and it was about as cheerful a kickoff to the dinner hour as anything I’ve come across lately. In fact, almost all the drinks that Ferris’s bartenders stir up in about four square feet of space are smarter and more bracing than what typically comes out of a full-size bar, and often they are poured into vintage etched glasses that any neo-speakeasy would envy.
Twenty-three years ago, Judy Sakuma, a native of Vietnam who fled Saigon during the war, and her husband, Willy, began selling shoyu ahi poke from a cooler under a parking garage off Kapahulu Avenue, not far from Waikiki Beach. Now she and her daughter, Kim Brug, offer eight kinds of poke at Ono Seafood, a small, eternally besieged storefront with a couple of picnic tables, next to that same garage.
The burnished head of cauliflower, first boiled in salt water that’s “always moving, like the sea,” as the chef put it, then gently massaged with olive oil and roasted, becomes a meltingly tender, pull-apart dish. Mr. Shani claims to have been the first to create it after noting a roasted head of cauliflower at the home of Shahar Segal, a filmmaker and advertising executive who is his partner at Miznon.